Day 9 - A long day and a character-full overnight stop
Tuesday 20th May
Hawes to The Tan Hill Inn
17 miles
Janie and Stuart run a lovely guesthouse with
flavours of Janie’s Scottish homeland but they are very strict about
breakfast times. 8.30 -9.00 a.m. We shared breakfast with Wendy and
Steve and two older male guests who were enjoying a gentler holiday
than us four. Another excellent breakfast but we decided to buy our
packed lunch in Hawes today. Over breakfast Wendy explained that her
hip was playing up and asked about our luggage transfer service, as
all four of us were going to the Tan Hill I suggested she put some
of her stuff in my suitcase. It was a bit of a squeeze but we
finally got it zipped up and wondered if Brigantes would think that
I’d done a lot of shopping in Hawes.
Before leaving we chatted to Janie and Stuart
about the famous Doreen Whitehouse who we learned has now retired
and had sold Butt House. We bought some delicious looking sandwiches
from The Chaste in the centre of Hawes and were soon on our way.
It was glorious walking weather today, bright
blue skies, fluffy white clouds and just a slight breeze. Some
gentle farmland walking brought us to Hawdraw where we declined the
detour to see the waterfall behind the Green Dragon pub. Instead we
made a start on the 5 mile pull up to Great Shunner Fell, at 716m
the highest point on our journey so far. Using the GPS were worked
out when we were half way up and stopped for a coffee from our new
flask. We endured the climb in solitude apart from an odd little
machine on caterpillar wheels working in the distance, spreading
something over the hillside. We guessed that it might be feed for
the black grouse as earlier we had seen a sign explaining that the
moorland habitat was being improved to encourage more birdlife.
We made the summit by about 1pm and chose the
appropriate quadrant of the large windbreak in which to eat our
lunch. Soon we were joined by the HF group who had been following us
up the fell. Ginny, a Canadian from Toronto, had been on the
internet last night and had found our Coast to Coast journal and so
now knew much more about us – a slightly strange feeling. The group
remained our companions for most of the day until Keld where they
were picked up by their minibus. Although still sunny we donned our
fleeces to make the descent into Thwaite where the Kearton Tearooms
beckoned. Here we indulged a leisurely pot of tea and some scones
despite knowing we still had 7 miles to cover. The first 3 miles
around Kidson hill were deceptively tough. We departed before the HF
group but it wasn’t long before we saw them coming up the hill
behind us with Ginny at the front as usual. Whilst sharing the rough
track we spotted the path below in the Swaledale valley, Mum and I
reminisced about our walk along it from Keld to Reeth on our
Coast-to-Coast adventure in 2006. Eventually the path began to
descend into Keld after a very long 3 miles and I finally managed to
capture one of the many low flying aeroplanes on camera. At Keld we
bid farewell to the HF group not sure if we would see them in Bowes
tomorrow. We ate our oranges by the side of Kidson Force as Mum
gathered herself for the final push up to Tan Hill.
Heading up to East Stone Dale Farm the
steepness of the climb and the beautiful evening light warranted
several backward glances down towards Keld and Kidson Hill behind.
As we ascended we got ever-improving views over Butt House and the
old Keld Youth Hostel that is now known as Keld Lodge and is owned
by our luggage company, Brigantes. The 228m ascent was nicely split
into two sharp pulls and two more gentle meanders over the side of
Black Moor. We encountered lots of lapwings and disturbed a pair of
black grouse who flew up right in front of us leaving their tiny
chicks to scurry in all directions. The guidebook seemed to suggest
that we would see the Inn long before we did so it was a pleasant
surprise to see it so close when it finally came into view.
Since leaving Keld I had been trying, without success, to get a
phone signal in order to tell Wendy not to wait for our arrival
before retrieving her gear from my case. Obviously Tan Hill is not a
place to be reliant on your mobile phone. We finally arrived at 8
p.m. taking care not to let the large lamb in through the door.
Inside the fire was burning and the bar looked incredibly inviting
across the stone flagged floor. Through in the lounge we spotted
Wendy and Steve. Wendy dressed in a rather fetching miniskirt – all
she had left in her rucksack but she was quite happy clutching her
beer and waiting for some pub grub. We were not surprised to see the
two caid lambs behind the bar having previously read of the unusual
goings on at the Tan Hill Inn on the internet. We booked in,
showered in the smallest bathroom ever and quickly returned to the
bar to order supper. The two lambs were now asleep in front of the
fire and we tucked into some very good food and some Theakstons XB
whilst chatting to Wendy and Steve.
Another early night, we were too tired to even unpack the
rucksack although Mum did manage to wash a few pairs of socks. Any
idea of writing my diary or programming the GPS went right out of
the windowThought for the day:
Deb –
I had underestimated the roughness of the track around Kidson Hill
but at least the 4-mile climb up to Tan Hill was not quite as tough
as I had anticipated
Mum
–
I really appreciate being in the beautiful UK countryside; there is
a special attraction about these isolated places
Pictures
Mum leaving Hawes with her new rucksac
Economical use of stone flags
Beginning the long climb up Great Shunner Fell
Strange vehicles on the moor
We were glad of the stone flagged path here
Marsh Marigolds
Descending into Thwaite
Climbing out of Thwaite
The rough track around Kidson Hill
A low flying jet makes us all duck
Peter leads his HF group
Mum enjoys an orange before the final pull of the day
Looking across to Butt House, Keld Lodge and Keld village
Climbing out of Swaledale with Kidson Hill behind
Finally we spot Tan Hill Inn on the horizon
Notice on the door of the pub
In the bar!
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