Day 12 - A low level riverside walk with impressive waterfalls
Friday 23rd May
Middleton-in-Teesdale
to Forest-in-Teesdale
10.2 miles
We both slept well in the comfy beds at
Belvedere House. We breakfasted around the large dining room table
with a couple from Brisbane and three other guests who had also been
in the Teesdale Hotel for dinner last night.
Jenny was a bit flustered over breakfast as she
was anxious to leave to collect her son from the airport. We were
away by 9 and bought our lunch provisions from the local Co-Op. The
walk today promised to be gentle, through fields of wild flowers
alongside the south bank of the river Tees. There were lots of walls
to cross with a variety of stiles and gates to negotiate - at least
they were devoid of the loose rocks we had encountered on many of
the stiles in more remote places.
We crossed to the north bank of the river on
the famous suspension bridge and sat on the rocks just downstream
from Low Force to have our morning coffee. Making a slight detour up
to the Bowlees visitor centre we passed a tethered white horse
tucking into the long lush grass on the verge. The centre in the
converted chapel had some interesting displays about the surrounding
geology and local flora and fauna – Mum bought a book on British
Native Trees and learned that the specimens we has so admired were
in fact bird cherries.
Back on the trail, another mile brought us to
High Force. We actually missed the best viewing spot even though the
roar of the waterfall announced its presence long before we got
there. We made our way down to the waters edge above the falls, took
off our boots and enjoyed our picnic lunch of bread, humus and
tomatoes. Whilst Mum rested I dipped my feet in the cool water- the
river was far too deep and fast flowing to think about attempting a
crossing so I settled for messing about on the rocks on our side. I
did, however, dash back to the better viewing point to take some
photos leaving Mum to wonder what she might do if I was not to
return !**?
The final section of today’s walk went past the
noisy and dusty quarry at Force Garth and then rose through gnarled
juniper bushes to a vantage point from which we could see all the
white washed buildings of Forest-in-Teesdale. As we descended
towards the river I realised that I had no idea which of the
dwellings was our destination for the night. I had left the
directions Jean had sent to me in my suitcase. Our B&B, The Dale,
was actually marked on the OS map but it was unclear as to which
house the name belonged to. I tried to phone but there was no
signal, we made an educated guess but unfortunately got it wrong,
but by chance Jean’s cousin was driving the first car we flagged
down and she pointed us in the right direction. Ten minutes later we
were at the door of The Dale but no one was at home. Five minutes
later Jean pulled up in her car, home from work at the High Force
Hotel. Apparently she had explained that she wouldn’t be home until
after 5pm but of course that piece of information was still inside
my suitcase already sitting in Jean’s hallway. Apologies all round
and we were soon drinking tea and eating homemade lemon cake in the
TV lounge. Jean’s husband, Derek, arrived, home from work at the
quarry. We admired the photos of him in full Scottish regalia and he
explained his passion was for playing the drums in two local pipe
bands. After hot showers Derek gave us a lift up to the Landon Beck
Hotel where we enjoyed a good meal and a few drinks in the very
welcoming atmosphere. It was beginning to turn really cold so we
were grateful for the two log fires in the pub, I indulged in a malt
whiskey and spoke to Tom on the phone – he seemed to be coping fine
at home on his own - Mel and the girls were now in Costa Rica.
The barman made a quick phone call and within minutes Derek was at
the door to give us a lift home – what service! Mum spent the rest
of the time before bed sitting on the floor with her back on the
radiator reading trashy magazines and trying to get warm before
disappearing under the mountain of beddingThought for the day:
Deb –
Enjoyed all the wild flowers and waterfalls today
Mum
–
surprised to find out that the bird cherry is a native tree – it
looked spectacular in full bloom along the banks of the river Tees
Pictures
Fly fishing on the River Tees
Bird Cherry Trees
Beautiful bluebells
The river starts to get a bit more lively
The Wynch bridge
Morning coffee at Low Force
Horses near Bowlees visitor centre
Messing about on the trail - obviously too much time on our hands
High Force Waterfall
The quarry at Stone Garth
Some of the residents of Forest-in-Teesdale
The Dale B&B
The biggest and most comfortable beds on the Pennine Way
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