Day 10 - A short day and a lazy afternoon
Wednesday 21st May
Tan Hill to
Bowes
8.3 miles
We were woken at 4.30 a.m. by the early morning
sunshine and the crowing cockerel outside in the pub car park. We
had no quarrels with the sunshine but did wish we had packed an air
rifle for the cockerel – only joking!
A table for six was set in the bar, we joined a
young couple from Huddersfield and when Wendy and Steve came down
Tracy, the landlady, appeared and announced that if we wanted tea
and coffee we should make it ourselves. Uncertain of this unorthodox
approach to hospitality we made moves towards the kitchen. It soon
became apparent that it was just Tracy’s unusual sense of humour and
she did in fact make the drinks. After juice and cereal, six full
English breakfasts arrived – not the time to decline the baked beans
we thought. Tracy announced that it was far too quiet and put on the
Tan Hill CD; a song all
about the pub and its characters delivered in a Chaz ‘n’Dave style.
Then half way through the full English Mum let out a scream as a
large rubber spider dropped onto her head from the ceiling. Once the
commotion was over and Mum realised she wasn’t about to have a heart
attack we noticed Tracy giggling behind the bar. She was obviously
keen to make our visit memorable! Anyone staying at the Tan Hill
will certainly remember it but be warned – be prepared for anything!
We waved goodbye to Wendy and Steve from our
bedroom window as they set off across the moor on their 25 mile leg
to Forest in Teesdale – a destination we were not due to reach until
Friday. We took our time packing up as today we had only about 8
miles to cover. When we finally came down with our bags Tony, the
driver from Brigantes, was waiting in the bar. He didn’t rush us and
was happy to stay for a chat about our walk and the local area. A
lovely man, obviously enjoying his semi retired status.
Setting off at 10 a.m. we left a very bemused
Chinese tourist in the bar having just been told that he had to pay
£1 to use his mobile phone in the pub – Tracy up to her usual tricks
again….
We set off in shorts but soon stopped to cover
our legs as it was quite chilly. The route down from Tan Hill would
have normally been boggy so we were very grateful for the good
weather. The only people we saw on Sleightholme Moor were a couple
in a 4x4 vehicle trying to get up to the Tan Hill Inn, we directed
them as best we could and continued to the point at which the trail
splits. We took the right hand route to take in the Bowes loop.
Almost immediately the busy A66 came into view carrying
numerous lorries across the northern Pennines. The terrain became
more lush and green as we continued through farmland along the
river, eventually reaching the ruins of Bowes Castle where we both
admitted to feeling quite weary despite our short day. Bowes village
felt like a ghost town, any anticipation of getting some lunch was
fading fast; even the post office was closed. Reaching the Ancient
Unicorn Hotel at 3 p.m. we were greeted by a note on the door
directing us to our room in the converted stable block across the
courtyard. We deliberated on getting a taxi into Barnard Castle at a
cost of £13 but on reflection we decided to have a lazy afternoon,
enjoying a long soak in the bath, doing some laundry and watching a
bit of TV until supper. Whilst lazing around in towels on the bed we
noticed two minibuses pull into the courtyard – sure enough it was
the HF group – due to our state of undress all we could do was to
pop our heads round the door, wave and shout “see
you tomorrow”.
On the stroke of six we were in the bar asking for the menu. At
first the pub was quiet but as we sat enjoying the real fire the
locals started to trickle in. Missing out on lunch tempted us into
having three courses – Goats cheese salad, soup, Beef goulash, lamb
chops and pear & almond tart to finish – yum! Luckily the portions
were of sensible proportions so we were able to enjoy all three. We
sauntered back to our room across the courtyard to watch ‘The
Apprentice’ before yet another early nightThought for the day:
Deb –
a bit disappointed by the lack of facilities in Bowes
Mum
–
Today I’ve been thinking about the miles already covered and those
still ahead, we must be approaching half way soon. Deborah informs
me that we have walked 142 miles and will hit the halfway point
tomorrow –wow!
Pictures
The Tan Hill Inn
Morning coffee on Sleightholme Moor
A friendly cow on the path near Sleightholme Farm
The trail splits here - we took the Bowes Loop
The ruins of Bowes Castle
The Ancient Unicorn Inn, Bowes
Mum waiting for her pub supper
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