Day 15 - A short day and a coffee stop in Alston
Monday 26th May Garrigill to Slaggyford
9 miles
Nice as the cooked breakfast was I’m not sure
if I’ll ever want to face bacon again. We declined a packed lunch as
we were to walk through the market town of Alston today. Tony from
Brigantes turned up before we left this morning so we had another
good-humoured chat with him in Margaret and Bob’s kitchen before
leaving at around 10 a.m.
The walk was in two halves today: 4 miles of
riverside walking to Alston then 5 miles to Slaggyford. Despite her
taxi ride yesterday, Mum was still feeling quite tired, for the
first time I think a few doubts were creeping into her mind. This
was the start of things to come but I won’t dwell on that just yet.
We saw surprisingly few people today considering it was a Bank
Holiday but it was a little busier in the market town Alston. We
headed straight for the tourist office to enquire where I could
purchase another memory card for my camera as I was fast running out
of space. Unfortunately the town had no camera shop and even the
pharmacy was closed for the holiday. Oh well, I would just have to
be more selective with my choice of subject. We had coffee in the
Blueberry Tearooms, served to us by the most miserable looking
waitress we had ever seen – I guess she had other plans for the bank
holiday. Mum finished her coffee whilst I ran up the street to
The Moody Baker where I bought some delicious goodies for our lunch
to be enjoyed later.
The official route out of Alston climbs up the
side of the valley but on spotting the South Tyne Trail going in the
same direction Mum thought the low level route alongside the disused
railway was more to her liking. It wasn’t the most scenic of paths
but at least it was flat and we did get to see a steam train,
ferrying tourists along the South Tyne Railway. At the end of the
line, at Kirkhaugh, we rejoined the official Pennine Way path and
stopped to eat our lunch beside a dry-stone wall. As we only had 2
miles to go we indulged in an after lunch nap in the sunshine – a
most unusual activity for us but again, with hindsight, maybe we
should have recognised the signs of things to come.
The last 2 miles were more scenic, including a
lovely amble along the riverside just before Slaggyford. The village
is tiny and Yew Tree Chapel must surely be the jewel in its crown.
David and Mary have sympathetically converted the old chapel into a
beautiful home set in the most romantic of gardens. We were greeted
at the door by David and his dog Petra and served tea and biscuits
in the magnificent living room. The full height of the chapel had
been maintained and the old chapel organ pipes now frame the door
into the dining room. David is an artist who specialises in stained
glass, he has replaced all the chapel windows with exquisite
contemporary stained glass panels, some of which are over 10 feet
tall. We were interested to see David’s photo albums that document
the restoration project. The couple have obviously worked very hard
and with such vision. Now complete, Yew Tree Chapel is a beautiful,
warm inviting home, even the guest accommodation has been
imaginatively designed.
As there is no pub in Slaggyford Mary provides meals for guests who
have no transport. We enjoyed a delicious home cooked meal with wine
at the large dining room table. We sat on two of the original chapel
pews. I had run out of space in my diary so David kindly provided me
with additional writing materials and I felt extra inspiration to
write sitting at his desk in the main body of the chapelThought for the day:
Deb –
I was now beginning to have some concerns about Mum’s ability to
complete the walk but vowed as ever to take one day at a time
Mum
–
I would love to show the chapel to David
and my son Roy, I’m sure they would appreciate all of the hard work.
I might return one day but maybe by car next time!Pictures

Bob & Margaret at Bridge View

Tony, our lovely Brigantes driver

Flora along the River South Tyne

Level walking to Alston

Alston

Tourists on the South Tyne Railway

Our alternative path along the South Tyne Trail

A shorter day and a lunchtime snooze

Deb on the steps of Yew Tree Chapel

Yew Tree Chapel interior
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