Day 4 - Moorland, reservoirs and a literary
pilgrimage
Thursday 15th
May
Hebden Bridge to Cowling
16.1 miles
We breakfasted with two young women who were
off to do some staff training at Rochdale prison, the conversation
ventured into the psychological theories currently being used in
large organisations but soon our attention turned to more mundane
questions, like ‘had Mirriam done our washing?’ Sure enough, it was
all airing on the hall radiator so after a chat to Gordon in the
kitchen and collecting our packed lunches we were ready to leave by
8.30.
Miriam sent us across the fields behind the
farm to rejoin the Pennine Way where the route continued on ancient
paved paths squeezing between old stone walls. The path led us down
to a stone packhorse bridge in Hebble Hole, delightfully surrounded
by bluebells, looking spectacular in the dappled sunlight. There
followed a steady ascent to get back onto the moors and although the
weather was fine it was breezy enough to keep us in our jackets.
Looking back we were amazed that we could still see Stoodley
monument but the onward views over Hepstonstall Moor towards the
reservoirs were more inviting so we pushed on, eventually reaching a
small ravine crossed by two footbridges where we stopped for a snack
and our first paddle of the trip. The water was very cold so our
foot soak was brief but it did remind us of our Coast to Coast
adventure in 2006 when we actively sort out places to cool off
several times each day due to the incredibly hot weather. Suitably
refreshed we soon joined the concrete road leading up to the Walshaw
Dean reservoirs. On the way up we were puzzled by the regularly
spaced lay-bys, fenced by wooden rails but not big enough for a car
– we didn’t meet anyone to ask and are still puzzled so if anyone
has the answer please let us know via our guest book – thanks.
We lunched by the side of the second reservoir
in the shelter of some rhododendron bushes and enjoyed the gammon
and mustard sandwiches that Miriam had made. There followed a steady
climb up onto Stanbury Moor through deep reeds and heather. Near the
top we finally got a phone signal and whilst calling Dad we noticed
that we could STILL see Stoodley monument – would we ever get away
from it.
As we descended from Withins Heights we spotted
the ruined farmhouse that is reputed to be the inspiration for Emily
Bronte’s Wuthering Heights and as expected we met a few walkers on a
literary pilgrimage to the site. The signposts on the way down were
bilingual, the second language being in Chinese characters, or maybe
it was Japanese, obviously catering for the international nature of
the tourist attraction. Approaching Ponden Reservoir we fancied a
cup of tea at Ponden Hall, mentioned in the guide book, but
unfortunately it was too early in the season so we just had to
admire the 17th century architecture instead. At the end
of Ponden reservoir we made our final climb and moor crossing of the
day. The path just by-passes the trig point on Ickornshaw Moor but
we still felt that we were walking on top of the world – a comment
made several times already on the trip. Just before reaching the
valley we passed through Lower Summer House Farm where we were
greeted by an array of young animals – piglets, ducks and several
breeds of chickens including one very proud cockerel – I couldn’t
resist a quick photo shoot for Jane, my daughter who is mad about
animals. Leaving the farm we saw two large hares in the field that
were more difficult to capture on camera but I did manage to get one
slightly blurry image. On reaching the road we were escorted to the
village of Cowing by a local lady out walking her dog and were
welcomed by Susan from Woodland House who was looking out for us.
We enjoyed tea and cake in the back porch and had a long chat with
Susan as she used to live in Sheffield. Woodland house is a lovely
B&B, providing for our every need. After a shower we ate at The
Harlequin, a friendly place serving excellent restaurant food at
bistro prices, we left feeling well satisfied and happy for the very
short walk back to our comfy beds at Woodland house.
Thought for the day:
Deb –
I loved the openness of the moors today but was surprised by the low
water levels in the reservoirs
Mum
–
A day of varied scenery, lots of heritage and well-constructed
buildings and boundary walls, there is nothing temporary about the
architecture in these parts
Pictures
Mum leaving Badger Fields Farm
The walled path leading down to Hebble Hole
Bluebells
Heading for Heptonstall and we could still see Stoodley Pike
monument
Gorple Lower Reservoir
Our first paddle on the trip
Climbing up to the reservoir road
Low water levels in the Walshaw Dean reservoir
Leaving the Walshaw Dean Reservoirs on our way to Withins Heights
Emily Bronte country
Bilingual signposts
Ponden mills
A very proud cockerel at Lower Summer House Farm
Pigglets at the same farm
Fleeting glimpse of a wild hare
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